A deep clang resonates around Dokk1, Aarhus’ latest pride and joy, a state-of-the-art multimedia centre towering over the harbour.
Centuries ago it was the exclusive reserve of the Royal family, and a treasonable offence to eat one of its prized bivalves.Foraging both types, we fill our buckets up; back on dry land Peter orchestrates a gourmet indulgence.We eat them raw and barbecued, sometimes with misguided toppings (blue cheese) on the larger Pacific variety. I greedily guzzle the meaty native variety, unadulterated, with just a squirt of lemon juice, while enjoying the idyllic spot, sheltered by a house beside the inlet where trees bend in the wind between wild grasses and marshes.His seven-course tasting menu is like a voyage through the Jutland countryside, bringing wild herbs, berries, lumpfish roe, truffles, langoustine or veal to your table.Gustatory pleasures in Jutland are abundant and varied, but it is worth heading northwest (about three hours’ drive from Aarhus and half that from Billund) past scattered thatched houses, modern bungalows and white Lutheran churches to the gourmet hotspot of Limfjorden, a long, snaking sea inlet where artisan producers specialise in anything from ducks to bison, lamb, crabs or the delicious Thise cheese, organic of course.
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Almost a century ago, the Battle of Jutland took place in those choppy waters, 100km out to sea on 31 May-1 June, 1916, pitting the British against the German navy.Twenty-five ships sank and over 8,600 died, the majority British sailors.From the oyster hub of Lemvig it’s a short drive up a finger of land to the mouth of Limfjorden and the tiny fishing village of Thyborøn.The remoteness is accentuated by salty breeziness, solitude (one cyclist peddles by) and silence, only interrupted by the clinking of lanyards.Because Aarhus, Denmark’s second city, at the heart of the Jutland peninsula is now racing towards 2017 status as European Capital of Culture.
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